last (but certainly not least) surf sesh

Headed out for our last surf sesh of the semester. 

This semester has rocked. Academically it's been a tough one to get through...but there have been so many ups! For example, I bought my first wetsuit (yahhooo!), I stood up on quite a few waves, I was able to spend ample time at the beach (newps, el porto, huntington), bonded with my fellow surfers (nati, liana, sarah, melissa, etc) and basically just had a blast in God's creation. I can feel myself getting more and more confident each time I head out....and I know that it's all about practice. I cannot get any better sitting on the shore. I have to dive in. Our last surf sesh was chill...hopped on a few waves and tried to catch some actually waves (not just white water). At times it was hard, staying balanced and making sure I popped up at the right time. I will say that I'm getting a better feel for the water and the power behind the waves. Lucky for me, I have awesome friends that support me and push me and make surfing a bast. My goals for this summer are to try and find some people back home to surf with. As of right now, the only people I know are my uncle and his friends (who are all like 50+) and surf at like 5am. dawn partrolllll! So im hoping to track down some friend my age to help me continue on my surfing goals. Its only been a semester and I can feel myself getting used to the water....so I can only imagine what another 5...10...20 years of this will do!!

shakkaa abrahhhh.

10/88

TOTAL POINTS 88. 

movie review: rip girls

YESSS!!! A surfing classic. hahaa. I grew up watching this movie on the Disney Channel and can remember dreaming up the day when I could move to hawaii and play in the water all day and then venture off to a tucked away house in the mountains of oahu only to drink pineapple juice and ride horses. This movie chronicles a young girl names Sydney who moves to Hawaii because of her father's job. She moves with her father and step mother, for her real mother passed away when she was younger. Her mother actually grew up on the island, and movie back to hawaii reconnected sydney to her mother and to a past that had been hidden from her for her whole life. 

I love this movie because it is cheesy. I love this movie because it is about surfing. I love this movie because every 10 year old girl wants to be sydney! 

The best scene of this movie is when sydney's friend come to her window late at night and sneak her out. Everyone is having party and nigh surfing to welcome in the whales that come once a year, and she hears a story told by one of the elders. I just love the culture and the hawaiian feel of this movie...rip  girls for life!

1/78
TOTAL POINTS 78

board meetings and Bible readings...

Two things that I love a lot are: my penny board and my Bible. I know they dont really go 

together, but i've spend a lot of time with both this semester and I found it applicable. Lets start with Penny. For my birthday (december) I receive my adorable penny board from my sister and her fiance. I am not a skater...but I was stoked to become one. I've been practicing riding penny..shes tiny and hard to get good at...but we've bonded and im starting to get used to it! What I love about having a skateboard is being able to practice what its like to be on a wave. A friend once told me that Penny boards are the closest thing to surfing on land. SICK! She really is an awesome board..so easy to turn and carve and go fast...

and she's just so cute! (and glows in the dark!!)

Okay wait...there are three things I love...PENNY + BIBLE +BEACH.

triple threat right there! This shot is from one of our trips to Newport with Sarah and Liana. 

There is something so incredibly special about being on the sand, staring at the huge abyss that is the ocean...and reading the word of God. Nothing really compares to that...to the beauty that surrounds you and the beauty that flies out of those pages. In this particular devo time...we were talking about a hunger and thirst for the Lord and we read psalm 63 which says "my body longs for you. my soul thirst for you in a dry and weary land where there is no water" ironically...the ocean! haha. I love love love being at the beach and opening the word of God. definitely something i'll do more often this summer :)

2/77

TOTAL POINTS 77

surfing museum

Earlier this semester...when we surfed at Huntington...we hit up the local Surfing Museum 

to check out a bit about the history of surfing, specifically here in southern california. Truthfully, I never knew this museum existed...but it caught out eye and we decided to head on it. It's a small little place, just a few blocks from the strand..and it rocks. Its really awesome to see a collective gathering of all things surfing. From old boards people used to cruise on, to photos of lifeguards and surfers from the 50s and 60s...to old surfing apparel and things of that sort. I really would love to see a place like this expand to be able to reach more people and educate those who know nothing about the art/sport of surfing! Also...it's free! I'd love to go back, and spend more time reading and looking at photos.

1/75

TOTAL POINTS 75

movie review: Blue Crush

Now this movie...is a surfing icon. hahaha. maybe not for everyone, but for teenage girls it is. I first watched this movie back in highschool...and i'd say it had a lot to do with sparking my interest in surfing. Then, they put it on netflix YAHOOO!! This movie follows three local hawaiian chicks who work and surf and work and surf...and are scraping by on money they get from working at a hotel. Anyway...they stumble upon a group of football players from the main island and teach them how to surf. Then miss blondie decides to fall in love with the quarterback and things get a little sticky. 

I guess what I like most about this movie is the vibe of these chicks. I remember being young and thinking of how badly I wanted to be able to not shower...get salty on a daily basis...hang out with my girlfriends while sitting on a board in the middle of the ocean...and just cruise through life. And, I always envisioned these chicks as being so tough...so fit...and so RAD. My favorite scene from this movie is when they workout...and run with rocks at the bottom of the ocean. ALWAYS WANTED TO DO THAT. All I can say is they make hawaii look like a dream (which it is...so beautiful) and I think they did a great job of portraying female surfers and the lifestyle of a local hawaiian. 

1/74 

TOTAL POINTS 74

movie review: the Lords of Dogtown

I finally watched the Lords of Dogtown!

In highschool, my friend Alli would rave about this movie and would flip our every time she remembered that I hadn't seen it yet. Well Alli..I have!

hmmm..what to say about this one! haha. Well this movie is based on the life of the Z-boys..who became professional skateboards. Growing up in the 70s in souther california..this movie follows the Z-boys (Tony Alva, Stacy Peralta, and Jay Adams)...and their group of friends. We watch as the life of these boys unravel : surf. skate. party. thats basically it. 

They run into some problems with parents, money, competition, and even death...and ultimately this movie shows the growing pains of these professional boarders. Their life is skateboarding...and it consumes them. Its who they are and what they do..and its what their life revolves around.

What tripps me out about this movie is that its real. Real people, real stories...and its hard for me to imagine this as someones life! But none the less..get past all the grunge, drugs, and reckless behavior...and you see a documentary of the life of these kids who would one day become icons.

This movie is definitely full of a lot of darkness (sex, money, drugs) but I grew to admire the boys freedom and the way they loved the sport of skateboarding. They lived such free lives...running around outside and growing up with such adventure. Definitely a crazy life...but it made them who they are and they became legends.  crazy! 

1/73

TOTAL POINTS: 73

movie review: Soul Surfer

I follow Bethany Hamilton on instagram. 

she always posts pictures of her dog, surf, her family...and is always one thing - joyful.

Bethany is an inspiration unlike any other. Not only because of her incredible surfing talent...but because of her faith in Jesus Christ. Soul Surfer is a movie based on the true life story of Bethany Hamilton, world renowned surfer who's arm was bitten off by a shark on a casual surf sesh in Hawaii years back. I am so so thankful that they made a movie about her! Her story is incredible, and nothing short of the Lords working in her life. 

Back in highschool I saw bethany surf at Huntington at the U.S Open. 

This was years after the shark attack that almost took her life, and I noticed one thing about her - she was strong. Physically she is stronger than what most female surfers look like. Not only was she physically strong, but she seemed so mentally and spiritually tough. Kids were running up to her left and right after she exited the water and she smiled at all of them...and you could see the peace inside her and the joy she finds in the water. 

Her story is crazy..and she is a trooper. Bethany's story is one of triumph...and one that goes much deeper than succeeding in a sport of being famous. This story touches down to reach us at the core...Bethanys triumph is one of failures, doubts, tears, and yet strength, perseverance, hope...and ultimately the love of the father!

such a good story!

1/72

TOTAL POINTS: 72

blackies (forgot to post)

I forgot to post this surf sesh, back at Newport with Liana and Sarah...a while back.

We headed in early Saturday morning because I had to be back for something (which I cant remember)...and Sarah was kind enough to drive :) We arrived at the beach at around 8:30 and felt that ocean breeze. The waves were a bit heavy...and you can tell a lot of people were watching the surfers rather than getting in the water. haha...as newbs we decided to get in but with caution. Last thing we wanted to do was look like a crazy lady our there..or get hurt..you know.

Anyway...with Liana and Sarah with me we headed in a did our best.

it was hard..especially without Nati there to help us (shes pro. definitely pro :)) 

I think this day of surfing really taught me a lot about the attitude a surfer must have. They cannot just surf because they get up every time and like to show off (because you wont. you'll crash and burn..a lot) To be a surfer is so much deeper than just being good. Its the love of the ocean. the love of the waves...and the love of just waking up and getting to work!! Having a rough day cannot stop you..because you will have rough days. many in fact. And thats something ive been learning through surfing...you have to have to haaaave to push through the sucky part. The days when waves are weak or way too strong, the days when youre tired and cant catch a thing, or stand up...and if you truly love surfing it none of that will matter!!!

10/71

TOTAL POINTS 71

NEWPS!

This past Saturday, we surfed Newport again!

I think Newport is starting to feel like home..surfing wise that is. Anyway..Nati's boyfriend Marty was up visiting and he came along..lucky for me he brought along his 9'3 LOG. Well, the weather forecast said it was supposed to be around 90 in azusa but with that ocean breeze Newport was still pretty chilly. The water felt amazing though! Well...Marty let me try out his 9'3 log and it rocked. I finally was able to ride a wave longer than 4 seconds. haha. Caught about 4 in a row...which rocked! I could feel myself getting used to popping up..and figuring out where I felt secure on the board. On one wave I was headed towards a group of kids in the water (uhh ohh haha) and ended up turing a little to the lift. I will say, that rocked. 

I think for the first time, I felt what surfing really was. I felt the height you feel standing on the water, and the force the wave really does have. You feel it taking you forward and its unreal. 

best surf sesh yet :) 

10/61 

TOTAL pts: 61

STEP INTO LIQUIDDDDDD.

Just watched this classic surf documentary. all I can say is...WHAAATTT!?!?! 

I had never heard of this doc before, until my friend showed it to me. UNREAL. This documentary followed a multitude of rad surfers all over the globe who chase waves because of one reason - they love it. What shone through this movie was the passion these surfers have man! Its insane the huge waves they chase...and it is ridiculous how brave they must be to catch these. It was also really cool to see some famous surfers in their younger years ( Slater, Machado, Taj Burrows)...and they proved to me once again how timeless and ageless a sport like surfing is. This documentary really portrayed some surfers who chase HUGE (by huge I mean like 60+ ft) waves by the only means possible...a jetski. Another part I really liked about this movie was the different types of surfing they showed. They showed the classic prime location of Pipeline in Hawaii, maui, and spots in souther cali (San clemente, San onofre) but also showed how people are passionate about surfing in places like Texas, Michigan, etc. WHO KNEW?! ALSO...whoaaaa check this out...some dude who lives up north (forget his name) has committed to surf EVERY SINGLE DAY. EVERY DAY. no questions. He's been doing it for the past 25 years and said that he was aiming to surf everyday till 2004 (this is an old movie). This dude worked through a pile of wetsuits, a bunch of surf wax....and does it purely for the love. 

WOW. This documentary rocked. Every surfer should see it. no doubt. Loved every minute of it...and it made me wanna get out there for one reason only - the love of the water. 

1/51

TOTAL: 51pts 

surfed el porto.

last saturday I surfed my local beach aka Manhattan beach/El Porto for the first time!! 

Natijane, Bri, and Melissa drove down to meet me and we headed to the water. It was slightly sprinkling outside...but we didnt let it get to us. So we headed to MB, the place I spend most summers as a kid and the beach I call home...and began our sesh. It's crazy to me how different each break can be. From Newport, to Huntington, to El porto, they all feel so different...and I can see how surfers favor one over the other. Our day in was rough. There was a strong rip tide under us for the majority of the day pulling us North which made it hard to paddle out and stay on the board. We all got up a few times, but not enough to get in a groove. I noticed that the water was a little less crowded than it usually is, and I came find out that its' probably because the waves werent the best. Needless to say we had our fun! And it was awesome to finally surf my home break. 

50/50 

back at newps

 Found ourselves back at Newps this past Saturday for another surf sesh. Seems as though we'd become used to Blackies...and its starting to feel a little like home. Saturday the water was again, frigid. But the sun soon peaked its little head out and we were golden. The waves were chillennn saturday morning and there were a bunch of little grooms in the water. These little babes out there in the waves...quite the encouragement. Anyway...we had a fun sesh just playing in the seaaa.

Sarah's up! 

 baby waves

good day sliding i'd say. 

40/40

lady sliders

B L A C K I E S

 surfed blackies again this past Friday. 

the water was frigid, but we managed to survive.

 tryin to catch a few baby waves

had to move the car about a block or so to pick up some food before we

headed back home...so instead of loading the boards up on top we just

stuffed 'em in and crammed. haha. This surf sesh was a load of fun. Being able to surf with

Nati Sarah and Liana was rad...and it's cool just being out in the water with everyone. 

the waves werent ideal, but we made the most of it. until next time..!

30pts/30pts