This past Saturday, we surfed Newport again!
I think Newport is starting to feel like home..surfing wise that is. Anyway..Nati's boyfriend Marty was up visiting and he came along..lucky for me he brought along his 9'3 LOG. Well, the weather forecast said it was supposed to be around 90 in azusa but with that ocean breeze Newport was still pretty chilly. The water felt amazing though! Well...Marty let me try out his 9'3 log and it rocked. I finally was able to ride a wave longer than 4 seconds. haha. Caught about 4 in a row...which rocked! I could feel myself getting used to popping up..and figuring out where I felt secure on the board. On one wave I was headed towards a group of kids in the water (uhh ohh haha) and ended up turing a little to the lift. I will say, that rocked.
I think for the first time, I felt what surfing really was. I felt the height you feel standing on the water, and the force the wave really does have. You feel it taking you forward and its unreal.
best surf sesh yet :)
10/61
TOTAL pts: 61
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