blackies (forgot to post)

I forgot to post this surf sesh, back at Newport with Liana and Sarah...a while back.

We headed in early Saturday morning because I had to be back for something (which I cant remember)...and Sarah was kind enough to drive :) We arrived at the beach at around 8:30 and felt that ocean breeze. The waves were a bit heavy...and you can tell a lot of people were watching the surfers rather than getting in the water. haha...as newbs we decided to get in but with caution. Last thing we wanted to do was look like a crazy lady our there..or get hurt..you know.

Anyway...with Liana and Sarah with me we headed in a did our best.

it was hard..especially without Nati there to help us (shes pro. definitely pro :)) 

I think this day of surfing really taught me a lot about the attitude a surfer must have. They cannot just surf because they get up every time and like to show off (because you wont. you'll crash and burn..a lot) To be a surfer is so much deeper than just being good. Its the love of the ocean. the love of the waves...and the love of just waking up and getting to work!! Having a rough day cannot stop you..because you will have rough days. many in fact. And thats something ive been learning through surfing...you have to have to haaaave to push through the sucky part. The days when waves are weak or way too strong, the days when youre tired and cant catch a thing, or stand up...and if you truly love surfing it none of that will matter!!!

10/71

TOTAL POINTS 71

NEWPS!

This past Saturday, we surfed Newport again!

I think Newport is starting to feel like home..surfing wise that is. Anyway..Nati's boyfriend Marty was up visiting and he came along..lucky for me he brought along his 9'3 LOG. Well, the weather forecast said it was supposed to be around 90 in azusa but with that ocean breeze Newport was still pretty chilly. The water felt amazing though! Well...Marty let me try out his 9'3 log and it rocked. I finally was able to ride a wave longer than 4 seconds. haha. Caught about 4 in a row...which rocked! I could feel myself getting used to popping up..and figuring out where I felt secure on the board. On one wave I was headed towards a group of kids in the water (uhh ohh haha) and ended up turing a little to the lift. I will say, that rocked. 

I think for the first time, I felt what surfing really was. I felt the height you feel standing on the water, and the force the wave really does have. You feel it taking you forward and its unreal. 

best surf sesh yet :) 

10/61 

TOTAL pts: 61

STEP INTO LIQUIDDDDDD.

Just watched this classic surf documentary. all I can say is...WHAAATTT!?!?! 

I had never heard of this doc before, until my friend showed it to me. UNREAL. This documentary followed a multitude of rad surfers all over the globe who chase waves because of one reason - they love it. What shone through this movie was the passion these surfers have man! Its insane the huge waves they chase...and it is ridiculous how brave they must be to catch these. It was also really cool to see some famous surfers in their younger years ( Slater, Machado, Taj Burrows)...and they proved to me once again how timeless and ageless a sport like surfing is. This documentary really portrayed some surfers who chase HUGE (by huge I mean like 60+ ft) waves by the only means possible...a jetski. Another part I really liked about this movie was the different types of surfing they showed. They showed the classic prime location of Pipeline in Hawaii, maui, and spots in souther cali (San clemente, San onofre) but also showed how people are passionate about surfing in places like Texas, Michigan, etc. WHO KNEW?! ALSO...whoaaaa check this out...some dude who lives up north (forget his name) has committed to surf EVERY SINGLE DAY. EVERY DAY. no questions. He's been doing it for the past 25 years and said that he was aiming to surf everyday till 2004 (this is an old movie). This dude worked through a pile of wetsuits, a bunch of surf wax....and does it purely for the love. 

WOW. This documentary rocked. Every surfer should see it. no doubt. Loved every minute of it...and it made me wanna get out there for one reason only - the love of the water. 

1/51

TOTAL: 51pts 

surfed el porto.

last saturday I surfed my local beach aka Manhattan beach/El Porto for the first time!! 

Natijane, Bri, and Melissa drove down to meet me and we headed to the water. It was slightly sprinkling outside...but we didnt let it get to us. So we headed to MB, the place I spend most summers as a kid and the beach I call home...and began our sesh. It's crazy to me how different each break can be. From Newport, to Huntington, to El porto, they all feel so different...and I can see how surfers favor one over the other. Our day in was rough. There was a strong rip tide under us for the majority of the day pulling us North which made it hard to paddle out and stay on the board. We all got up a few times, but not enough to get in a groove. I noticed that the water was a little less crowded than it usually is, and I came find out that its' probably because the waves werent the best. Needless to say we had our fun! And it was awesome to finally surf my home break. 

50/50 

back at newps

 Found ourselves back at Newps this past Saturday for another surf sesh. Seems as though we'd become used to Blackies...and its starting to feel a little like home. Saturday the water was again, frigid. But the sun soon peaked its little head out and we were golden. The waves were chillennn saturday morning and there were a bunch of little grooms in the water. These little babes out there in the waves...quite the encouragement. Anyway...we had a fun sesh just playing in the seaaa.

Sarah's up! 

 baby waves

good day sliding i'd say. 

40/40

lady sliders

B L A C K I E S

 surfed blackies again this past Friday. 

the water was frigid, but we managed to survive.

 tryin to catch a few baby waves

had to move the car about a block or so to pick up some food before we

headed back home...so instead of loading the boards up on top we just

stuffed 'em in and crammed. haha. This surf sesh was a load of fun. Being able to surf with

Nati Sarah and Liana was rad...and it's cool just being out in the water with everyone. 

the waves werent ideal, but we made the most of it. until next time..!

30pts/30pts