blackies (forgot to post)

I forgot to post this surf sesh, back at Newport with Liana and Sarah...a while back.

We headed in early Saturday morning because I had to be back for something (which I cant remember)...and Sarah was kind enough to drive :) We arrived at the beach at around 8:30 and felt that ocean breeze. The waves were a bit heavy...and you can tell a lot of people were watching the surfers rather than getting in the water. haha...as newbs we decided to get in but with caution. Last thing we wanted to do was look like a crazy lady our there..or get hurt..you know.

Anyway...with Liana and Sarah with me we headed in a did our best.

it was hard..especially without Nati there to help us (shes pro. definitely pro :)) 

I think this day of surfing really taught me a lot about the attitude a surfer must have. They cannot just surf because they get up every time and like to show off (because you wont. you'll crash and burn..a lot) To be a surfer is so much deeper than just being good. Its the love of the ocean. the love of the waves...and the love of just waking up and getting to work!! Having a rough day cannot stop you..because you will have rough days. many in fact. And thats something ive been learning through surfing...you have to have to haaaave to push through the sucky part. The days when waves are weak or way too strong, the days when youre tired and cant catch a thing, or stand up...and if you truly love surfing it none of that will matter!!!

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